The door adjustments allow the door in relation to wing to be moved in or out and up or down by a few millimetres. To move the door back requires the insertion of spacers. A friend of mine, Don machined two 1mm and two 2mm spacers, should I need these. One is required for the top and lower hinge, which is sandwiched between the door and hinge fixed to the 'A' post during normal mounting of door. The spacer is item 13 in the 'D' parts catalogue Group 72 Table 42. There is however no adjustment to move the door forwards to the edge of the front wing/fender. To reduce any gap at this point requires lead loading of the edge.

Wear in the hinge can cause the door to be out of alignment. A short fall in design means that the hinge pivot point on the 'A' post wears as it is made of aluminium and rubs against the harder steel hinge pin as it rotates. This wear is often as a result of lack of maintenece by feeding with grease via the grease nipple on the hinge. The softer and worn part is part of the 'A' post and out of bounds to replace. An oversize pin can be machined and the door part of the hinge drilled to take the oversize pin. This may weaken the hinge pivot point so an alternative is to bush the 'A' post, the stronger part. SLS, a Classic Mercedes-Benz parts supplier in Hamburg Germany, sell an oversize bush with new pin, but if any drilling is required to fit the oversize bush there is not much room. Incidently to remove a hinge requires a special tool which can only be fabricated.

After much filing and sanding the contour of the door gap followed the door perfectly. This entailed putting the door on then removing serveral times until a perfect finish.

More to come......... I have spent longer than anticipated to update this site as I have been utilising the time to progress the restoration which is at paint stage with all components in process of being rebuilt. I have additionally developed a new website Parry Chana Restorations. Providing valued customers with the same care and attention that my personal 190SL receives.

The factory fenders/wings and the nose (or tail) panels (item 45) were assembled and welded together on factory jigs, thereby insuring good fit and alignment. The entire front or rear could be ordered from the factory as one unit. Nowadays one has to resort to separate wings and nose/rear panels.

The nose panel, tail panel and fenders were in perfect rust free condition and only required a small attention with the hammer and dolly to work out small dents and ripples. Previous repairs were done with polyester filler rather than metal work. This was finished off with a small amount of lead to perfect.
If replacing the nose panel before welding ensure that the bumper brackets line up and that the holes through the nose have equal vertical and horizontal distances. The bonnet should be correctly aligned with the top of the nose. As one would not have access to the factory body jigs ensure that the headlamps are facing in a straight line. Note that the headlamp buckets are a separate part and not an integral part of the frnders or nose panel. This is an area overlooked and results in misalignment of headlamps. Another point to consider if replacing the nose panel is to ensure that the joint between the two parts is not overlaped with the fenders. Corrosion will result in latter years as the front tyres will throw up debris and become trapped between the two layers of metal overlaped. A butt welding this jointis typical of repairs at a restoration shop as opposed to overlapping as commonly done by bodyshops.

The grill area of the nose before restoration looked perfect until I trial fitted the chrome grill. The chrome barrel with the two spacers was impossible to slide into the nose aperture. The problem was either that the grill was too large or that the nose had panel damage not repaired earlier. Once stripping the paint and bondo it was the latter of the two. Incidentally no two bonnets or grills will fit different cars as these like the rest or the 190SL were hand built and made to fit by the factory workers. Taking measurements from different 190SL's it was obvious that the vertical distance was one centimetre too small in the middle where the chrome star would sit. The grill will fit with force when removing the chrome spacers. On the point of originality and as the spacers were probably there to prevent contact corrosion of the barrel with he upper and lower wings I decided to fix the problem. Most 190SL's I have viewed have one spacer, but there should be two, one upper and one on the lower. The bonnet line was higher than the top of the nose indicating that the top panel need to go up. A mini ‘Ram’ with a Portapower was used to correct the gap with a perfectly fitting grill.

With a perfect grill fit, it was time to lead around the upper nose section to fill holes previously made by a screw type body puller and to tighten the gap between upper chrome grill and nose panel lip.

The grill wing ends should ideally have a 1mm gap. Load loading and panel beating achieved this although at present there is greater than 1mm to allow for the thickness of the paint.

The damaged body panel and frame filler panel were cut out. This provided access to the inner portion of the rear wing, which was remarkably rust free. This was acid washed, rinsed and sealed with epoxy primer.
The remaining lip and panel was panel beated to ensure that the curvature followed the contour of the body. It was important to get this part correct as the rocker sill chrome, door and stone guard will show any bad contours. A cardboard template was transferred onto a flat piece of sheet metal. The curvature was made with a hammer and dolly and the lip of the covering panel fabricated on the edge of the work bench. Both panels fabricated were welded in after an initial trial fit. This area was finished with lead solder.

The rear panel after metal work and lead loading produced a nice base for paint. The chrome eyebrow moulding holes were checked for correst location and contour with the body. The chrome moldings need work on the edges to perfect a fit as the contours did not follow that of the eyebrow sheet metal. Possibly the reason for this was that I was trying to fit new replacement parts to original factory rear panels. The tooling over the years may have worn or these have been re-manufactured to fit the new factory panels. In fact a few 190SL's viewed with new panels and chrome moldings showed that these did not exactly fit like a glove. Another reason to pre-fit every part to the body before final paint. I like to pre-fit when body is in metal and after the primer stages before top coats are applied. Time consuming, but you can appreciate why a professional restoration shop's labour hours can accelerate quickly.
As a matter of course all chrome work was trial fitted to the body during metal work as well as during the primer stage to ensure correct fit. Any cutting or adding of metal to perfect a fit can be done at this stage.

The dry floor was then sanded with 3m Scotch brite pad and cleaned with panel wipe and degreaser. I used a Devilbiss GTI gravity feed gun with a 1.4mm tip to spray the floors with three coats of PPG DP40 epoxy primer. This should provide sufficient coats to seal the metal over which was sprayed 3M smooth anti chip coating, Grey part number: 08886. I like this product as it is smooth and overpaintable and sharing the same, robust anti-chip benefits of the textured product, 3M™ Smooth Coating dries rapidly to an excellent finish. Applied using the pressure adjustable air-fed 3M Pressure Pot Stonechip Applicator gun gives the best results.

The joints were seam sealed with Wurth Polyurethane adhesive and sealing compound. Product 0890 100 2 Grey using a hand application gun. A further coat of PPG DP40 epoxy primer will follow three coats of PPG Semi-Gloss black DB167 or RAL7167 (DB164 or DB167 Tiefdunkelgrau Matt) in the inner boot floor and the undercarriage side will be painted PPG's DAR 4065 "Sandalwood".

Incidentally any one planning on replacing the rear wings and or the rear panel should pay particular attention to how these parts were joined at the Mercedes-Benz factory to the boot floor. The outer sides of the boot floor had a felt strip between the lip of this panel and the rear wings. The felt should be removed and replaced with a modern sealer after de-rusting as it acts as a wick soaking up water and rusting these two sections. Ensure that the outer floor is not welded to the rear wings at this section otherwise the rear wings will distort with stress marks at the meeting points. The lip on the rear of the boot floor should be spot welded to the rear panel. The factory's welding equipment and workers were remarkable as there was very little distortion or dimples on the outside of the rear panel. Once spot welded any dimples should be finished with lead even though this area will be behind the rear bumper centre section. All joints should be sealed after epoxy priming.

The dry floor was then sanded with 3m Scotch brite pad and cleaned with panel wipe and degreaser. I used a Devilbiss GTI gravity feed gun with a 1.4mm tip to spray the floors with three coats of PPG DP40 epoxy primer. This should provide sufficient coats to seal the metal over which was sprayed 3M smooth anti chip coating, Grey part number: 08886. I like this product as it is smooth and overpaintable and sharing the same, robust anti-chip benefits of the textured product, 3M™ Smooth Coating dries rapidly to an excellent finish. Applied using the pressure adjustable air-fed 3M Pressure Pot Stonechip Applicator gun gives the best results.

The joints were seam sealed with Wurth Polyurethane adhesive and sealing compound. Product 0890 100 2 Grey using a hand application gun. A further coat of PPG DP40 epoxy primer will follow three coats of PPG's DAR 4065 "Sandalwood" Semi-Gloss tan/grey.

Ensure that before any original floor pans are removed that you mark the locations of the brake and fuel pipe clamps and ensure these are drilled before painting. If using original mounting clamps ensure that square holes are drilled and pre-fit the pipes, clamps, fuel tank and fuel filter to ensure location is correct. This was aided as the body was rolled onto its side. Additionally before painting ensure that the two holes for the rubber exhaust bumper are drilled in the right hand front floor pan. The fronts of the floor pan that meet the lower firewall panel were originally factory bent at a ninety degree angle and upwards. This will cause an obvious water trap. I decided to seam weld at this joint and cut of the lip by grinding back. Push plenty of seam sealer at this point, when I say push do not use a brush, instead use a putty knife to ensure it is as tight as can be.

The floor pan joints were seam sealed with Wurth Polyurethane adhesive and sealing compound. Product 0890 100 2 Grey using a hand application gun. A further coat of PPG DP40 epoxy primer will follow three coats of PPG Semi-Gloss black DB167 or RAL7167 (DB164 or DB167 Tiefdunkelgrau Matt).

The paint codes quoted from Mercedes-Benz documentation supplied by the Classic Centre were:

DB-Nr. 167 oder RAL 7167 (tiefdunkelgrau - low dark gray)
MB teilenr. A 00 986 67 33/7167

The 190SL Group technical manual quotes this as A000 986 67 33/7164.

Looking at the Glasurit Color-online both these codes MB7167 and MB7164 come up as Tiefdunkelgrau Matt.

I had my local paint supplier mix up the DB167 RAL7167 and it looks very close to the original colour from the flap below the fuse box cover and is not Matt but semi-gloss.

Wurth list in their catalogue the MB167 as an aerosol 400ml can code number 0893 349 167.

The SIP 170 turbo Mig welder performed nicely but welding on you back with overhead plug welds took time mastering. Too low a speed and rating on hte Mig welder and the weld would not hold up. Too fast a wire speed and too high temparature the weld will fall out, hopefully missing your arm. Precautionary measures should include full body and head protection, safety first. I sort the advice from a Hot Rod forum, HotRodders, and this was the response by one of the members:
"Remember to work the pool. If the weld is falling out of the hole, two things to look for here.
1) You probably actually have too much heat or moving too slow and the weld is molten to the point that it is sagging under its own weight. Gravity is getting you there.
2) Also make sure that there are no gaps between the 2 pices of metal. If this happens, it not only is a bad seal, but it makes it a bear to weld vertical plug welds.
If the tacks are not holding, again it is a missed location of weld or lack of penetration. A lack of penetration may be from weld technique or heat. I really doubt that it is heat since we are talking relatively thin sheetmetal here. When doing that type of plug weld, I usually try to start in the middle of the hole and work the weld out to the edges while circling around the entire inside of the hole. If you see the molten pool starting to sag, stop for about 3 seconds and hold the torch in the same spot. When it is too dark to see the pool through your helmet, hit it again and finish the weld.
Overheald welding is probably the most difficult if that is what you are doing. If you take two pieces of sheetmetal about the same guage, set them together on the ground or bench, you can tune your welder comfortably before trying to overhead weld the floor pan. Look at the backside of the second piece of scrap. You should see where the heat has penetrated through it. Not fused material like a pimple, but just enough to discolor the metal outlining the weld from above."

Armed with this advice and with several practice runs I mastered the overhead plug welding.

While the car was on jack stands I built a trolley. This was rigged with two protrusions to one side clear of the body so as to provide a pivot point when rolling the body over its side. Next process is to complete the grinding, de-rusting and preparation for paint. Much easier than working under the car on your back.

Time now to attend to the right hand wheel well, which was previously badly repaired by plug welding rust holes. The lower portion was cut cut out. An new repair panel was fabricated complete with drain hole. This was butt welded an finished off by lead loading.

I additionally decided to replace the left hand lower firewall as the right hand side came out nicely and since I do not have a streatcher and shirinker to hand, as the lower edge that joins to the front floor pan is curved. The rear floor sections are easier to weld in as there is more space. I have decided to remove the engine and turn the body on its side to aid welding, grinding and painting. On removing the engine by lowering the sub frame with the engine and gear box, the body could not be raised high enough to wheel out the complete unit. Instead the gear box will need to be removed from under the car. The engine can then be removed using a hoist from top, which should give me more room to wheel out the sub frame on its tyres. That job I have postponed until I am able to rally up a few more helping hands.

The factory spot welded the floor pans on to the main chassis sections. This was done before the outer body panels were welded on. As I do not have a single sided spot welder, I made good by punching holes on the edge of the floor pans where the spot welds would be and plug welded the holes. I additionally seam welded the inner side for added protection. The factory did seam weld at the rear portion where the floor curves upwards. I was concerned if my welds would hold up. Tests on a few weld spots proved my welds should hold up.

I plan on cleaning the surface rust by sanding and acid wash when all the welding is done.

Plan for next week is to have the right rear floor pan welded in. It does require a bit of cutting to make it fit. These cars were hand made and each panel was cut to shape before fit, so you can not just buy new panels from the factory and expect them to fit. The worst case I have come across was rear quarter panel, the edge that meets the boot lid on the left hand panel are a quarter of an inch too short. Mercedes Benz are aware of this mis-fit but suggest that the panel should be cut and a piece welded. One would not expect that kind of adjustment for panel fit.

This was the longest next week. More cutting and grinding was needed than I had thought to make this panel fit well. Once the rear sides were cut the panel welded nicely. This photo shows the welded panel which still requires finishing with the grinder. Progress this week was made on getting the front right hand floor pan ready for welding. This should be welded in by the end of this week. Luckly this panel does not need the cutting and grinding that the rear panels required.

All box sections like the rears were sealed with Wurth cavity wax after painting. This should safe guard against future rust.

Commenced working on front right floor pan. Easier to weld than the rears as no curves and bracekts in the way. The lower firewall welded excellently and fit was perfect. As this side has come out well I have decided to change the lefthand lower fire wall too, before welding in the last floor pan. I can see the end to the welding, as after the lefthand firewall, left fron floor just the seat support panels left.

Will need to decide soon the best way to turn the body over so that I can start the preparation work to paint the underneath.

Welded the last floor pan today. Looks good but hard work. Lots of grinding next under the floor pans. This should achieve an original finish like the factory spot weld. These were the most difficult parts to restore, as the floor pans need to be fit from underneath.

I would advise anyone doing the same job to invest in a rotisserie. This is one job that I would not like to do again. The cost of Chassis Tilter at £899 appears a lot to throw into one restoration but it would have saved a considerable amount of time.

The next project is the seat support boxes. Trial fit indicated that lost of adjustment, grinding and rebending will be need to make these fit. These were sourced from Jacksons Mercedes Benz main agent and I am suprised by the poor fit quality. It appears that these are not genuine parts but reproductions sourced from out side the dealership network.

Time for decisions on turning the car over so that I can start preparation of the underneath. I will let you know how I get on next time.

Above photos show trial fit of the seat support brackets. One lower seat pan was bent and needed straightening. The seat pan did not glide on its runners smoothly without much fabrication and adjustments to the seat support brackets.

On checking the fit of the inlet / exhaust manifold I noticed that the factory gasket did not entirely cover the inlet ports. It was 3mm short. I ordered another gasket from Jacksons which did cover the inlet and exhuast ports perfectly and was a different shape to the one obtained from USA. Luckily every thing was removed as it would have been time consuming with the exhaust manifold, inlet manifold and carburetors fitted, had this been discovered on starting the engine.

This photo was taken on arrival of the car from the USA. To aid shipping parts were packed into the boot, interior and bolted into the engine bay where possible. In addition to this chrome and valuable items were shipped over in secure crates.








This 190SL was assembled in the Mercedes-Benz Sindelfingen pant and delivered to the customer through Mercedes-Benz Denmark on 21st September 1960. From there it ended up in the USA.

On initial assessement my plans were to complete engine rebuild, flat and paint existing paintwork and to complete 190SL as a driver. As I started stripping parts it became obvious that previous repairs were not done satisfactorliy. More and more I stripped the car more and more I became dis-satisfied with previous work. The floor pans were initially painted semi-gloss black and the finished results was not good. On stripping the paint on the floors a great deal of pitting and pinholes were discovered. The decission to replace the floor pans and seat supprot proved to be right. One thing lead to another and finally I made the desicision to strip the entire 190Sl of every all paint, components and every nut and bolt.

The only way forward was to cut this out to sound metal and butt weld a replacement panel.An air cut off tool was used to cut out the rusted panel. A paper template was made and transfered to the new reproduction panel. The usual tip of measure twice and cut once was adopted in order to ensure correct fitment first time. This was then given a slight tappered edge to assist strenghting the weld and coated with a weld through primer.

Apart from the floor pans and lower fire walls the inner chassis rigger required attention. The first photo shows the state of this chassis member before treatment. Treatment used was to cut out rusty metal to sound metal, sandblast, acid wash, epoxy primer, and final coat of Wurth cavity wax Wurth. Fabricated panel was then butt welded and ground flat.

I decided to replace the complete interior floor pans with new replacement panels. The seat support boxes again looked solid but on cutting these out revealed that these were rusting from inside out and would have eventually collapsed. Mercedes-Benz never painted primer or sprayed anything else on the insides of the frame and box sections of the 190SL, which means that the insides of all box sections are prone to rust. The entire frame and floors should be inspected properly. The best method is to use a pick hammer and tap each part being inspected as described in The International 190SL Group's book Mercedes-Benz 1955-1963 Restoration and Ownership.

The floor pans and seat supports were cut out by drilling out the original spot welds with a spot weld cutter. The resulting spot welds were ground down. With all mating surfaces smooth and further welding to damaged chassis lips the chassis was sandblasted and then acid washed. All inner box cross sections were primed with PPG DP40 epoxy primer and sprayed with Wurth cavity wax.



The floor panels come in four sections, left/right and front/rear. Although these came from Mercedes Benz the quality was much to be desired. The rear left panel required very little cutting and adjustment to make a perfect fit, but the right rear was a few cm's too long all around and was not pressed in the centre of the panel. This required many hours of measurement, cutting, grinding and trial fitment before the panel was ready for welding. I have heard of left rear quarter wings being out of alignment too. All I can think of is that these parts are reporduction and not pressed from the original tooling.

This photo shows a trial fitment of the floor pans, which were aligned and marked up before cutting. Notice the original blue DB334 colour of the car evidenced after removing the sills in the lower left of the photo. The car has had its colour changed to black DB040.

The floor pans on a 190SL are originally lifted up onto the chassis from underneath and spot welded to the lip of the chassis members. Spot welder arms would not reach as the outer panels were fittedby the factory after spot welding the floor pans. I wanted to keep the look of the floor pans as original as possible. The only way to achieve this was to plug weld. A punch/joggler was used to punch holes every inch or so. The resulting plug was welded from the centre in short busts to the outer edge of the hole. This inverted welding position took sometime getting used and to set the mig welder and wire speed correct as I was welding in the inverted position. The floor pans and the part I was plug welding onto were 2mm thick so I had no problem with burning through. To stop the molten weld bead dropping out onto you, you need to strike the centre of the plug with the wire hot and fast. The resulting weld bead was then ground flat. As an additional security I stich welded the panels together on the inside of the car. The factory stich welded in serveral places inside the car too.